Steve O's Build

Follow progress of your fellow builders. Pictures encouraged!
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Midlana1
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Re: Steve O's Build

Post by Midlana1 » 15 Jan 2018, 08:08

I meant to mention this earlier, but if the upper side bars aren't yet fully welded, you might consider popping off one or both. That's because between now and when it's done, you're going to be in and out of the car about 1000 times. The bars makes access much less convenient.

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Re: Steve O's Build

Post by steveo » 15 Jan 2018, 08:59

I know! SOOOO inconvenient! I mean, have you no concern of my mission here!

Only the base is fully welded at this point. As I have deviated from the book by quite a margin now I was going to get to the point where I could see where the suspension pickup points would be before fully welding, so I can pop of those side bars quite easily.

Thanks for the tip! I could already see that that was going to be an issue. I also need to work out what I'm going to do with the spine of the car. I would really like to mid mount the radiators if I can which gives more flexibility.

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Re: Steve O's Build

Post by steveo » 24 Jan 2018, 20:42

Some updates....

So after three days of driving 1,100 miles to Montrose, Colorado and back we have the missus back home. It may not seem much to you Yanks, but to a Brit the idea of driving 1,100 miles is insane. If you drive 1,100 miles from anywhere in the UK you will get wet! The wife is doing fine. The fractured pelvis makes walking tricky and slow but isn't that much of a bother, but we found out today that she has broken something in her shoulder which explains the pain there. All things considered she's doing great, up and about and in good spirits except she's bummed out that her ski season has finished before it even really started!

On the car front I came to the realization that the next thing I need to do is to make the Front Suspension Fixture. As I haven't followed the book religiously the upper front tubes are at a sharper angle, so I could either trust my modelling and design skills ( :shock: ) or I could build the fixture as book and then construct the front end to join what I have built so far to what the suspension geometry wants.

Took a while to get it right and learned an interesting tip. Building this vertically is far easier than laying it out on the bench. Let me show you:

Image

First I cut drilled and reamed all the pieces and holes. First I tried laying them out on the bench and trying to get all the angles and parallels was really tricky as everything moved at the slightest touch and there was no reference. Then I had the brainwave of putting the lower piece in the vice, get it level then use shanks from two 1/2" drill bits to mount the uprights. Get these to vertical then just clamp the cross piece in place, measure and adjust accordingly and voila! Having a digit level helped but you can still do it with an old bubble level.

You'll notice that my two frames are different heights but this is to account that my front top bars at a higher angle therefore the rear needs to be higher, but this is OK as the suspension fixture points are exactly where they need to be. You'll also note that one isn't exactly 90' but again it doesn't realy matter so long as the holes are in the right place - which they are! It was 90' when I started but there's welding distortion for you. :o

Just waiting for the tube to finish this as I didn't order it in advance ... :roll:

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Re: Steve O's Build

Post by steveo » 02 Feb 2018, 14:07

Reasonable progress this week. It's amazing how having to work to fine tolerances slows you down and just fabrication in general is so time consuming, but when the hardened pros like Project Binky take 8 hours to make something I don't feel so bad:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hR1nU9IJsoM

Completed the front suspension fixture. I deviated from the plans slightly in that I tapped the tubes that connect front to back so I can use the actual bolts that will be doing the job to ensure a perfect fit, and I needed the tapping practice.

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Also completed the back fixture. Although this is out of order from the book, I feel more confident in fabricating the front and rear chassis to what are now known points. What I did find is that the way the rear fixture is made is a little error prone. Even small errors in length or alignment can result in quite large errors, particularly on the upper attachment points. By the time I got there I was a 1/4" out. I would have had one side wider than the other, so again I changed tack and engineered to the desired points - i.e. know where you need the hole to be then engineer the frame to that point.

I also used 2x4 for some of the structure, just because I had a ton of it lying around from the "scaffolding that I built for the cage. This has resulted in an extremely solid fixture. No movement at all!

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Also ordered all the suspension bolts from Aircraft Spruce. Yikes! I've never spent $164 on nuts and bolts before, at least not without coming away with a big pile of stuff! 24 AN-8 bolts and castellated nuts is some serious dosh, but being some of the most important parts on the car I want the good stuff with a known background and quality. $164 ain't too much for my neck!

So next week we will move onto the actual front and rear chassis, by the end of which it will start to look like a car!

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Re: Steve O's Build

Post by Midlana1 » 02 Feb 2018, 14:38

Everytime I see the rear fixture, my initial reaction is "too complicated", but still don't have a simpler accurate solution.

That said, the click-together fixture was really nice - if you have the resources.

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Re: Steve O's Build

Post by steveo » 02 Feb 2018, 14:52

What do you mean by "click together fixture"? Did I miss something's?

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Re: Steve O's Build

Post by Midlana1 » 02 Feb 2018, 16:17

See freakynami's fixture for his front suspension, something like that.

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Re: Steve O's Build

Post by steveo » 02 Feb 2018, 17:31

Oh I see. All that lovely laser cut stuff. Certainly a good way to do it.

Over complicated? I don't think so. The key is understanding that the purpose is to correctly identify where the fitments need to be in a 3D reference. Ultimately there are an infinite number of ways to do it.

I did find it easier to mark the appropriate widths from
Center then build to it, so perhaps it's in the way the book explains it. For instance there is a firting at 14.2" from center and 11.75" above the ground plane. How you ensure that a piece of material with a correctly oriented 1/2" hole appears at that point is up to the constructor.

With this approach I found Figure 26.6 to be the most valuable as that clearly identified the target rather trying to build our way to it assuming all lengths and angles are correct.

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Re: Steve O's Build

Post by Midlana1 » 02 Feb 2018, 17:44

Good to hear :)

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Re: Steve O's Build

Post by steveo » 04 Feb 2018, 20:48

Would you like to see something dirty?

I mean realllly smutty! Classy though! Very classy!

Lots plastic and bindings.....

Image

Yup! $164 of Aircraft Spruce's Finest hardware dropped on my doorstep Friday evening. There is something about really quality hardware isn't there?

Saturday spent the day getting the front fixture exactly where it needs to be. Having the bolts thread into the tubes does make assembly very easy and accurate. No alignment errors or movement of any sort. Took a while but with appropriate adjustments I think I have it bang on, so Monday we start making the front of the chassis!

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