Eric's Build

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ShadowCat38
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Re: Eric's Build

Postby ShadowCat38 » 17 Aug 2017, 20:19

Things being what they are, having a working and drive-able car that you intend to use as a donor for a project that will likely take an inconvenient amount of time, and then becoming overly dependent on that car because its there and you've manage find a place for it in your life, it's kind of hard to start pulling parts off of it. This is why you don't name animals you intend to eat someday.

Anyway, I decided I needed a different donor. Now that I'm a lot less isolated in the middle of endless cornfields, it is actually easier to find everything now, even other donor cars. I managed to pick up another car (this makes the 3rd ZX2 I've started to pull parts off of) for a great price, and now I'm back to it.

Donor3.jpg


It also came with this really nice looking brand new 6-puck 300hp clutch.

clutch.jpg


6-puck.jpg


Since getting it home, I've pulled the transmission out and need to soda-blast it clean.

transmission.jpg


I've also managed to verify that the Ford ZX2 axles fit perfectly in the knuckle, hub, and bearing used in Miata rear uprights. I'm super-excited about that. Anything I can keep from making custom will be that much easier to replace later when I break it. I thought I took a picture of them nested together, but I guess I'll have to get that later. If this momentum keeps up, I might have this thing sitting on rubber in the next couple of months.
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ShadowCat38
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Re: Eric's Build

Postby ShadowCat38 » 21 Aug 2017, 03:57

After adding the pilot bearing that is apparently not used with automatic transmissions, the flywheel, clutch, and transmission have been moved over to the rebuilt engine. Once everything was bolted up and torqued to spec, the real test came about: Will this engine, with the transmission, intake, and exhaust manifolds, still fit in the engine opening from above?

engin-install1.jpg


The answer is "yes, but it is close." I liked the approach that some of the other builders took with the removable rear crossbar, but I didn't want to take that route myself. Instead, I opted for crossed supports behind the engine to give a bit of extra room for engine installation and removal. I took some good measurements before, but I always had the accessories off when I was moving the engine in and out before this round. This time, for the first time, it validated itself. I expected it to fit without an issue, but it is always a good feeling when a plan comes together.

engine-install3.jpg


engine-install2.jpg


The only part that surprises me is the center of the differential is about 1-2 inches behind where I had intended my axle centerline to be. This isn't a horrible turn of events since the aft suspension support had to move backwards anyway, but it still caught me a little off-guard. I didn't expect automatic and manual transmissions to be different in that area. Given some limitations I had earlier in the build, I had to design around an automatic transmission to get mounts in place. If that's all the issues I have right now, then I'm still doing great.
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ChrisS
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Re: Eric's Build

Postby ChrisS » 21 Aug 2017, 07:30

I like those diagonal braces. I guess you could still do a bolt-in horizontal one, but just lightweight to take some of the rear panels?

I'm going with a structural bolt in one due mainly to the size of the V6 I'm using. My last car had a fixed one but I later converted it to bolt in when I took out the I4 engine and fitted a V6.

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Re: Eric's Build

Postby Midlana1 » 21 Aug 2017, 09:22

ShadowCat38 wrote:...
The only part that surprises me is the center of the differential is about 1-2 inches behind where I had intended my axle centerline to be. This isn't a horrible turn of events since the aft suspension support had to move backwards anyway, but it still caught me a little off-guard...

It's stuff like this that makes having the actual parts on-hand so helpful. Yes, you "could" put every single part into CAD, but having the actual parts on the table means that when it's going together for the last time, you absolutely know everything will fit*.

*I almost got caught because I changed a couple things part way through the build and forgot how they interacted with everything else.

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rennkafer
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Re: Eric's Build

Postby rennkafer » 21 Aug 2017, 13:12

Midlana1 wrote:
ShadowCat38 wrote:...
The only part that surprises me is the center of the differential is about 1-2 inches behind where I had intended my axle centerline to be. This isn't a horrible turn of events since the aft suspension support had to move backwards anyway, but it still caught me a little off-guard...

It's stuff like this that makes having the actual parts on-hand so helpful. Yes, you "could" put every single part into CAD, but having the actual parts on the table means that when it's going together for the last time, you absolutely know everything will fit*.

*I almost got caught because I changed a couple things part way through the build and forgot how they interacted with everything else.


Exactly why the first things I bought (after the book), were my engine and transmission. Same reason I've bought nearly all of the machinery I want in my shop before the infrastructure (wiring mostly) is done. I want it all in place where I "think" I want it before I run wiring, sometime things you think "oh that'll fit no prob" are more of a problem than you thought.
Bill J

ShadowCat38
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Re: Eric's Build

Postby ShadowCat38 » 21 Aug 2017, 19:56

Kurt, could you put up a picture of your rear upright sitting neutral with the frame next to it visible? Preferably looking straight forward or straight backward, because I've not been able to stumble back across any good images in the book or in the archives. I thought I remembered seeing one, but I cannot find it. With the transmission on, the engine mounted, the axles inserted, and the uprights set in place, I'm concerned that my width hub-to-hub might be a bit short, and I'm interested to see just how close your upright is to the outside of your frame. Maybe it's nothing, but I've got one of those mental itches that are really hard to scratch. Seeing how yours panned out with custom axles might shed some light on why mine is looking a bit...different than I expected.

Regardless, the hub-to-hub distance is perfectly bisected by the chassis center-line, so at least that turned out right.

Again, none of this was guesswork. I put a lot of measurements in place to make sure this stuff would land where I wanted it, and must have checked it 4 times. It's just a huge relief when things behave themselves.

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Re: Eric's Build

Postby Midlana1 » 21 Aug 2017, 21:14

I'll try not to forget...

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Re: Eric's Build

Postby Midlana1 » 27 Aug 2017, 17:44

ShadowCat38 wrote:Kurt, could you put up a picture of your rear upright sitting neutral with the frame next to it visible? Preferably looking straight forward or straight backward, because I've not been able to stumble back across any good images in the book or in the archives. I thought I remembered seeing one, but I cannot find it. With the transmission on, the engine mounted, the axles inserted, and the uprights set in place, I'm concerned that my width hub-to-hub might be a bit short, and I'm interested to see just how close your upright is to the outside of your frame. Maybe it's nothing, but I've got one of those mental itches that are really hard to scratch. Seeing how yours panned out with custom axles might shed some light on why mine is looking a bit...different than I expected.

Regardless, the hub-to-hub distance is perfectly bisected by the chassis center-line, so at least that turned out right.

Again, none of this was guesswork. I put a lot of measurements in place to make sure this stuff would land where I wanted it, and must have checked it 4 times. It's just a huge relief when things behave themselves.

It's not easy to take a picture due to bodywork being in the way, but does this help?: The centerline of the lower pivot of the rear upright is 3.7" outboard of the main chassis rail*.

*Keep in mind that's an adjustable dimension to some degree due to the rod ends.

ShadowCat38
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Re: Eric's Build

Postby ShadowCat38 » 27 Aug 2017, 18:10

That does help, probably more than a picture would. And it validates a concern I've tried to ignore. I think that my main chassis rail and the lower end of the upright might end up too close together, or at the very least, close than I would have expected. I'll need to take some better measurements once I've confirmed I have everything square, but it is looking like I'll have about 1.75" of distance between the main rail and the pivot centerline, unless I stretch the CVs, and I'm pretty sure that's a bad idea. In the long run, it may not matter. Everything moving is still outside that edge, and at the angles involved, the distance downward I'm losing in the current position is maybe 0.25" of drop, and that's probably an excessive estimate. Downward travel of the suspension is limited by that lower main rail on your car, right? And I'm fairly certain you said you've got bumpers in place and dampers sized such that you make sure those links never hit the frame. I'll just make sure I do the same.

I'm in new territory for my level of experience with the suspension, so I'm probably going to have a lot of questions. I'm ok messing up an engine. For some reason, I have a few of those laying around, and if they go, I will likely coast safely to a stop somewhere. But getting suspension wrong could mean a tire doesn't go where it was supposed to go in a challenging maneuver, and I wind up upside-down. I'd rather avoid that, so I'm trying to make sure I'm thinking everything through. This is one area where my vehicle is definitely going to be different than Midlana, and mainly because of the different powerplant.

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Re: Eric's Build

Postby Midlana1 » 27 Aug 2017, 19:13

Yes, the shocks stop the lower lateral arm about 1/8" above the frame rail. Feel free to ask any questions- it's likely others will wonder the same things at some point.


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