Jim Langan's build

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Langan
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Joined: 21 Dec 2008, 09:52

Jim Langan's build

Postby Langan » 30 Dec 2008, 12:14

Found some Miata spindles and uprites no rack yet. Bought plenty of tubing. Picked up my engine a K24A2 no trans. Not much but at least its a start. I am sure I have every tool nessary for build, but need help with where to buy Honda tools and parts K20.org has been a great help so far. I think Kurt has the info i need for oil pan, cluch, pullyies and ecu so I will refiew his old diaries.........Thats it for my first post when i figure out how to post pictures i will...........Jim
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Last edited by Langan on 12 Nov 2009, 14:25, edited 1 time in total.

Midlana1
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Re: Got some pcs. today

Postby Midlana1 » 30 Dec 2008, 18:00

I plan on using a stock pulley due to problems with aftermarket ones not being proper harmonic balancers. I am relocating my alternator down where the AC was due to having no way to run a belt to it in its stock location (it counts on other devices to be in place) plus putting it lower helps CG , too. I'm using a kit from here http://www.k-tuned.com/kpulley.html

Oil pan is from Mugen, a very expensive part but when I read nothing but positive comments it's hard to ignore. FWIW,the problem with K-series engines in a road-race environment is that in left-hand turns the oil runs up the timing chain area and starves the pump. While I could come up with something cheaper than the Mugen pan there's too much else to do right now.

For the ECU I'm using Hondata KPro. About the only other choice is the AEM unit.

Flywheel and clutch depend upon what your power level will be. I found a great deal on a used twin-clutch from Competition Clutch but it's overkill for anything under 300 hp.

Langan
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Joined: 21 Dec 2008, 09:52

Re: Got some pcs. today

Postby Langan » 30 Dec 2008, 21:27

I will order the Catfise nose tomorrow. I think it is worth the chanch it will fit. Same wheel base as Locost move the engine forward the nose gets wider so you can use a stok Miata steering rack. The nose is said to be 3" wider.

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Re: Got some pcs. today

Postby Midlana1 » 31 Dec 2008, 10:36

It'll fit, the design is based around it. The only "alteration" is that the back "ears" are pulled outboard by an inch or so in order to line up with the hood area.

And yes, an unmodified Miata rack is used (other than depowering it.)

Langan
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Joined: 21 Dec 2008, 09:52

Re: Got some pcs. today

Postby Langan » 31 Dec 2008, 10:49

Ordered Nose from Jack. Very nice to deal with just like Kurt said he would be. Good start with the suggested vendors.

Langan
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Joined: 21 Dec 2008, 09:52

Re: Got some pcs. today

Postby Langan » 05 Jan 2009, 18:39

I know this is boring but it is part of the fun Radiator and pedals from E-Bay 22 x 19-2 pass and no epoxy so I can weld what ever changes it needs to the outlets for 179.00. Willwood pedals from Kurts list with out cylinders for 175.00 free shipping. Will buy Masters when I know wheel cylinder sizes. On to the seat hunts, might be ease if they did not offer different sizes, its a good thing but know I need to find some to sit in......Jim
Last edited by Langan on 21 Feb 2009, 09:24, edited 1 time in total.

ekim952522000
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Re: Got some pcs. today

Postby ekim952522000 » 05 Jan 2009, 20:25

Don't buy without sitting in them, might want to consider a "Wider" passenger seat incase you have some larger friends.

Kurt how much room do we have for seats? Shoulder wings and bases? The seats in your car look like about the biggest that could fit.
Mike Uhlinger
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Midlana1
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Re: Got some pcs. today

Postby Midlana1 » 05 Jan 2009, 20:37

42" total width at the shoulders, 42" at the base, and 37" at the front-most top edge of the seats.

This is total width so cut that in half, and figure 3"+ between the seats for the center tunnel. The more space you can afford here the easier it'll be to bolt in the belts, move the seat mounts, etc. Absolute minimum (zero clearance) is 1.5" but it'll be a bitch to get down in there if you really butt them up against the tunnel sides.

The issue you'll find isn't the seat itself but the width of the shoulder bolsters - they can stick out a lot further. One "perk" of aluminum seats is that if it's a bit too wide to fit you can bend them to suit - really.

I got a snug-fitting Ultrashield driver's seat and a more "generously proportioned" passenger seat and they completely fill the given width. The shoulder bolsters touch the tubes on the outside and touch each other on the inside. Note though that you can move one seat forward or back from the other to aid clearance. Also consider that some seats - like these aluminum ones - hug your ribs which means your arms hang out the sides of the seat below the bolsters. On the outside there's arm room due to how the door-diagonal tube runs. On the inside it depends how, um, fat you and the passenger are, and how offset the seats are, as to whether your elbows are knocking into each other.

I'd say place the seats as far outboard as possible, especially if the driver has a wild driving style of elbows flailing this way and that!

Langan
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Re: Got some pcs. today

Postby Langan » 12 Jan 2009, 16:26

The table came out just like Kurt said it would. So far so good And when I am done it will make a great 2nd story to my garage
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Midlana1
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Re: Got some pcs. today

Postby Midlana1 » 12 Jan 2009, 17:02

Effing heavy?


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