Kurt Bilinski's build

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John Hancock
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Re: Kurt Bilinski's build

Postby John Hancock » 15 Jan 2018, 18:38

Have you ever considered entering one of the Optime Search for The ultimate Street events? I know you would take a points hit for creature comfort delete but engineering and performance would kick their snootie asses!

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Re: Kurt Bilinski's build

Postby Midlana1 » 16 Jan 2018, 07:21

Yes but I haven't looked into it in detail. I have images of running against $150K shop-built-and-backed efforts, like AWD GTRs running 1000 hp, and ace drivers paid to make sure they win.

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Re: Kurt Bilinski's build

Postby Midlana1 » 16 Jan 2018, 07:24

There is still oil dripping from the pan so the suspected leak source wasn't it. I'll inspect the other pan fittings before going the dye-and-observe route because the dripping almost has to be coming from the pan* itself or its mounting flange. There's still oil weeping from up high on the front cover but it's unlikely it's the source since there's no oil there after the engine stops.

*In a dry sump system, when the engine sits, oil gravity-flows back from the tall reservoir tank back into the pan through the dry sump pressure pump. This is normal and it's why before the oil level is checked (in the reservoir), the engine has to be run briefly to pump the oil back into the tank.

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Re: Kurt Bilinski's build

Postby rennkafer » 17 Jan 2018, 06:59

Midlana1 wrote:I hear you, but this is what the dry sump pan manufacturer recommends:
Check oil immediately after engine is shut off by removing the cap and look at oil level through the cap/filler hole. The oil level should be at or just below the slotted or screened baffle at the upper portion of the tank.


Also acceptable and get you the same basic reading. I read your original post as you were measuring the oil level in the oil pan, not the oil tank.
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Re: Kurt Bilinski's build

Postby Midlana1 » 17 Jan 2018, 07:52

Well, nuts, you're right, that's exactly what I wrote... scurrying off to fix it.

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Re: Kurt Bilinski's build

Postby Midlana1 » 17 Jan 2018, 13:09

Ordered new tires, Nitto NT01s, 205/40-17 fronts and 275/40-17 rears because the rears are so worn. Well, that, and because I finally realized that they're 7.5 years old! Even if they weren't worn, they're certainly no longer as soft as they were.

Rear tire wear is very symmetric which indicates the camber curve is good. There might be a bit more wear in the center, suggesting that tire pressure is high. I'll have to check but I think it's around 18 psi. Going much below that however causes the tires to start getting "squirmy." Also, on-track, higher pressure tends to make tires stick better, at least to a point.

As for why the rears are so much worn in comparison to the fronts, I'm not sure; I never do burn-outs or drift around turns, but there's obviously slippage going on. The rear tires carry about 50% more weight but they're also 34% wider (275/205), so load isn't the only thing going on.

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Re: Kurt Bilinski's build

Postby Midlana1 » 01 Feb 2018, 15:15

I'm considering having another transmission built. Since completing the car, there's been plenty of time to evaluate the current transmission, a modified RSX-S 6-speed with straight-cut aftermarket gears for 1-4, OEM 5-6, and a WaveTrac limited slip differential.

For the street the transmission's perfect, but for the track, the gearing isn't optimum because the engine's turbocharged. 5th and 6th, being OEM, are designed to handle ~160 ft-lbs and not the 400+ of a turbo engine. I take it easy in 5th and 6th which is probably why I haven't broken them like other people have with their 500+ hp.

Since the existing transmission works great, I'm considering selling it and using the money to offset the build of a slightly different version which will consist of another RSX-S 6-speed, but with:

1. Full aftermarket 1-6 gears with lower ratios, and stronger 5th and 6th
2. OS Giken LSD (one-way)
3. Carbon synchros

Reasoning:
I want ratios better suited for trackday events (numerically lower) and talked to someone with an Atom of similar weight and power as mine. He runs the ratios I'm considering so I asked how they worked for him. He said many people claim they're terrible, how just getting moving in first gear is a disaster. He pointed out though that our enormous advantage is how our cars weigh literally half what everyone else drives, so the car has no problem leaving a stop in first gear (2.313) with the stock 4.38 final drive ratio.

The differential is being changed to an OS Giken LSD, said to be good for several seconds a lap due to how it locks up. It's also supposedly easier to control the attitude of the car in turns. Both of these feature are very attractive.

I'm going back to helical gears simply due to cost and availability, and because the helical set claims to be able to handle 500 hp. Additionally, the carbon synchros should prevent the dreaded Honda 2nd-gear grind due to them wearing prematurely.

Haven't decided for sure but I'm close, and am currently waiting for some answers about whether the OEM final drive is safe to leave in-place.

Okay, okay, there might be one more perk of the above gear ratios. Between the new first gear ratio, the existing final drive, tire diameter, and my engine's red-line, I would be able to reach 60 mph in first gear - something I've always wanted in a car. The reality is that it's totally pointless and only good for setting a rather awesome 0-60 time :)

Lastly, with an unlimited budget I'd love to try a sequential gearbox but can't justify the ~$10,000 entry fee, plus having it become a wear item that requires periodic teardowns.

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Re: Kurt Bilinski's build

Postby Midlana1 » 12 Feb 2018, 11:11

Transmission builder now has all the parts. While I'm looking forward to the changes this unit will make, I most certainly do Not look forward to doing the swap. Because I didn't make the engine tray a removable assembly, everything has to come out first before the transaxle can be separated from the engine. Have a week off coming up and hopefully the planets will line up for doing the swap then.

On a somewhat related matter, the WaveTrac limited-slip differential in the car now has a issue. Back when they first started making them, their first batch had incorrectly-cut snap-ring grooves that end up not allowing the axle to release; it absolutely will not come out. The only way to remove the engine is to disassemble the axle and leave the inboard stub in-place. The good news is that the WaveTrac company is sort of local to me and that they're not only aware of the problem, but will fix it for free. That means taking the transmission to them, they somehow get the axle out, and then they go in and swap in properly-machined parts of the differential. It also frees my conscience that I'm selling a transmission that doesn't have any nasty surprises for the buyer.

I hoping that the timing of this works out. Hopefully the new transmission will be on-hand before the old one is removed and delivered to WaveTrac. While they work on it, the plan (hah!) is to install the new transmission and get everything connected. When they have it done (having hopefully separated the axle end undamaged) I can plug the axle end into the new transmission. This isn't a trivial detail - I called up The Driveshaft Shop where I got the axles from and asked how much just that one part cost (no CV bits, just the housing). $250... sheez! So yeah, hoping I can reuse the old part.

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Re: Kurt Bilinski's build

Postby steveo » 12 Feb 2018, 11:30

And that's 4600lbs you have to slow down and 4600lbs you have to make go round corners. A Midlana with 277bhp would whip it.

Reminds me of saloon car racing on the 60s. Big old Ford Falcons getting whipped by Minis.

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Re: Kurt Bilinski's build

Postby Midlana1 » 13 Feb 2018, 10:37

So I thought it would be good to modify the engine cover to make the back end of the car look more finished. So there I was cutting up a bunch of paper patterns when my brother calls and of course we talked about cars. I mentioned what I was doing, and the big jerk said "I always thought you should have made the engine cover much more arched." As soon as he said that, I wondered, why not indeed, arching it enough to cover the intercooler and maybe even part of the inlet ducting.

In addition, I'd completely forgotten that I'd added louvers; once the patterns were taped onto the existing engine cover, it was clear that it wasn't going to be a pretty modification. Worse, there's the original cutout for the air cleaner and scoop, yet another opening that's in the wrong place. I can salvage the louvers, cutting up the panel into two sections and placing them to each side of the intercooler, and/or directly over the turbocharger.
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