I thought I'd share my response with everyone, and as always, it depends.So I am currently planning out my build and going with a 2.0 ecoboost drive train. My questions is, if you were to do this again for a drag setup would you change much? I am mostly building a cruiser but would like to do some drag racing down the road once the 2.0 gets built and takes on some heavy boost. I know you built yours for the track and was just curious if your suspension decisions translate to the drag strip or if there would be a better approach.
Dear Potential Builder -
Because you're mostly building a cruiser,that decision drives the design. I'd leave the tire camber gains where they are, so that the tires wear evenly in both straight driving and in turns. Now, if this was solely for drag racing, then you might want the rear tires to stay square to the road with travel to improve traction, which means having nearly equal length upper and lower A-arms. That said, with my own car, due to the sticky tires, rear weight distribution, and gearing, it's not easy to spin the tires (but I don't side-step the clutch, either). The point being, traction is enough for me as it is so I wouldn't change anything there.
Engine-wise, that's a wide open area of discussion, but it comes down to the budget. You can just call an engine builder and tell him you want an 1,000 hp drag race engine, but you want to drive it on the street, which somewhat dictates engine choice. Typically, turbo engines built for maximum horsepower are a slug off-boost, and you need low-end response in everyday driving. At the other extreme, a 12,000 rpm, normally aspirated engine, with no muffler, that runs on methanol probably isn't the best choice, either. It, too, will have terrible off-idle performance, never mind being so loud that you'll get tickets left and right.
Doing it over, I would probably use an OEM turbo drivetrain then crank the boost up. While I'm completely happy with the turbo Honda K24, to build it right and make it reliable was very expensive. So expensive that every time I wind it out, the consequences of it blowing up makes me worry and compromises the fun factor somewhat. This concern isn't just for the engine, but also the transaxle; the cost of modifying that alone nearly doubled the overall cost of the drivetrain again.
Lastly, since Midlana is roughly half the weight of a compact car, even with a dead-stock engine you have twice the power-to-weight as the OEM car that the drivetrain came out of, and with far better traction with the drivetrain in the rear. What I'm saying is that you don't have to do much (or even anything) to the drivetrain to have a fast car.