I don't consider myself an expert per say, but I do have most of my experience with them, so it will help...b33fy wrote:You're more of an expert than I am with these engines so apologies if I'm not making sense or saying nothing new
No different than any other Subaru... I know guys who have theirs up on stands more than on the road. Several guys.... Like 75% of the Suby owners I know...b33fy wrote:Another in its natural habitat broken by the side of the road, France on this occasion.
Hopefully the single radiator will be up to the task. Since its a two pass its got a better chance.b33fy wrote:Cooling was a particular issue with the stom because of the twin radiator arrangement at the back. Under bonnet temps aren't helped by the twin headers and turbo positioning which was up higher than the usual position. which was tight against no 3 cylinder, which coincidentaly is the piston/cylinder most likely to fail. an inline 4's have the turbo and exhaust towards the back of the engine so is easier to manage the heat.
Stock location is up high near cylinder 3 for the USDM models. Some aftermarket companies have come up with low mount setups, I am researching them right now.
No apologies needed. If anything it gives me a chance to get ideas out and on paper.b33fy wrote:Apologies if you have thought this through,.. a couple of pointers if you haven't. For me the header pipe across the front of the engine preheated the fuel tank as it was too close to the tank not protected etc to the extend where it pressurised the tank and I got spillage as the tip valves etc didn't cope with the build up.
I had not thought about the header pipe heating up the gas tank. I may have to add some heat shielding & or change the size/location of the tank. I have contemplated using a fuel cell as I would like to run a few autocross events and I am not sure the homemade fuel tank would be legal. I do plan on ceramic coating the header which is supposed to lower temps by a substantial amount. Hopefully the combination of things will keep the gas from seeping out.
You are talking about the hoses that feed the heater core correct? That is another one of the details I had not gotten around to as of yet. Thanks for the heads up.b33fy wrote:To ensure the thermostat functions properly loop a pipe to the heater inlet and return pipes, this ensures that hot water flows across the cold side of the thermostat to make it work. I was mis informed and it caused me no end of problems
There is a few different ways to address this. Donor shifters from MR2's, homebuilt setups, and another donor (that escapes me at the moment). I will be "adapting" some ideas from the Factory Five 818 kit car. They have their own solution for this as well. Lucky for me I have 2 close Subaru friends currently building 818's so I can get my hands on the parts and really see whats going on.b33fy wrote:The gearbox is rod operated and doesn't lend itself to be converted to cable, if you haven't already got a solution and don't want to pay silly money for a bespoke solution post up and I'll dig out my approach to the problem which worked well whilst I had the car
That they do. Nothing like making just as much (if not more) torque than horsepower with a 4 cylinder. Hopefully I can build it into the mid 300's with the possibility to hit 400..b33fy wrote:All the best with it, they do sound good and pull like a train, sadly for me it didn't work out.